Fashion In Flight

Howard Greer

Hollywood fashion designer Howard Greer (1896–1974) created this fitted suit in light blue wool gabardine. It was known as the “cutout” for the openwork TWA lettering on the shoulder. With suggestions from supervisor of hostess services Ida Staggers, Greer introduced the “blou-slip,” a combined undergarment in rayon and satin that did not need constant tucking in. The triangular jacket flap could be unbuttoned to cover the TWA lettering, allowing the hostess to smoke or have a cocktail while off duty. This style of uniform was worn until 1955.

Transcontinental & Western Air hostesses in uniform by Howard Greer c. 1949
photograph
SFO Museum
Gift of the Estate of Audrey McNamara Nevis
2013.057.001
R2016.0301.310

Oleg Cassini

Paris-born American Oleg Cassini (1913–2006) worked in New York and Hollywood during an illustrious career that famously included being First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy’s official designer. In 1955, he introduced a fitted suit for TWA hostesses that was issued for five years. In a medium brown wool for winter, this summer version in lightweight green wool has a collarless jacket and belted skirt. The embroidered lettering was repeated on the cotton blouse. The colors were coordinated with the cabin interiors of the airline’s Lockheed Constellation for trans-Atlantic service at the height of the propliner era.

Don Loper

A well-known and multi-talented Hollywood figure, Beverly Hills designer Don Loper (1906–1972) added airline stewardesses to the long list of stars wearing Don Loper originals. This wool suit in Tunis Blue creates a fresh look with sharp, angular features exclaiming the aerodynamic mood of the exciting new jet age. The fitted jacket’s hourglass shape is emphasized by the slant of the triangular faux pocket flap, swept-back cuff, and partial peaked collar boldly traced by the blouse. A matching pencil skirt with a deep kick pleat completes the silhouette, while the hat’s forward fin and white piping punctuate the statement.

Pan American World Airways stewardesses in uniforms by Don Loper  1959
photograph
SFO Museum
Gift of Terry J. Rice
2016.032.001
R2016.0301.309

Emilio Pucci

Masterminded by advertising executive Mary Wells Lawrence and unveiled in 1965, Braniff’s revolutionary new identity shocked the airline industry. For “The End of the Plain Plane” campaign, designer Alexander Girard (1907–1993) introduced a vivid color pallet, while Italian-born fashion impresario Emilio Pucci (1914–1992) re-conceptualized the airline uniform. Pucci’s 1965 Gemini IV Collection was multi-layered for inflight quick-change combinations of suits, tunics, and culottes. Pucci then introduced this 1966 Supersonic Derby outfit. The harlequin-print nylon jersey, tights, and bowler hat have Central American instruments and pre-Columbian art motifs. Footwear designer Beth Levine (1914–2006) created the striped calfskin boots.

Braniff International Airways hostesses in uniforms by Emilio Pucci  1965
photograph
Braniff International Public Relations Archives, History of Aviation Collection,
UT-Dallas
R2016.0318.005

Jean Louis

Parisian by birth, Hollywood costumer Jean Louis (1907–1997) designed for hundreds of leading ladies, including a famous strapless gown worn by Rita Hayworth in “Gilda.” A frequent nominee and Oscar-winner, Louis had a long engagement with United Airlines and created this uniform for the airline’s 4,500 stewardesses.  The popular A-line, double knit wool skimmer is slightly fitted and came with a choice of hemline length from top-of-the-knee to three inches above. Worn from 1968 to 1970, the all-season outfit came in Hawaiian Sunset and Maliblue with a Miami Sands stripe. Two optional dresses were also made in Miami Sands with a Hawaiian Sunset or Maliblue stripe.

United Air Lines stewardess in uniform by Jean Louis  1968 
photograph
Collection of United Airlines Archive
R2016.0307.005

Cristóbal Balenciaga

Praised by his peers, Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895–1972) was a master of the sartorial arts—personally designing, cutting, and sewing his creations. He opened an Air France department within his Paris fashion house for the creation of this uniform. This winter suit, in navy blue woolen serge, perfects the semi-fitted look as it liberates the form and retains a lithe appearance. Overlaid flap pockets and a riding hat in satin velour create la mode aéronautique. The knee-length, shaped skirt has kangaroo pockets, and the turned down collar of the Terylene twill blouse adds to the outfit’s liberating comfort. After finishing the Air France collection, Balenciaga closed his fashion house.

Frank Smith, Evan-Picone

Dubbed “The Uniform for the Superjet Era,” and created for the new wide-body jet service, this uniform marked a new direction in Pan Am’s approach to fashion. It was created by Frank Smith (1927–2007), chief designer at career wear manufacturer Evan-Picone, to be “a functional and fashionable wardrobe that could be worn in all seasons, and of such quality that it would enhance the Pan Am image.” For the first time, the Pan Am stewardess could choose from two colors, Superjet Blue or Galaxy Gold. Fashioned after an English riding habit, it has a modified chesterfield jacket and a flared camisole skirt in polyester with the airline’s first above-the-knee hemline, and a cotton blouse with neckpiece. Topping off the dramatic new look is the bowler derby and reversible cape.

Valentino

Rome-based fashion designer Valentino Garavani (b. 1932) brought his passion for color to TWA in 1971 with a uniform collection that included men’s wear and pants for women. With a business-like look, this plum polyester knit dress suit has signature buttons and scarf. It marks a transition in airline fashion as age limits were removed and the profession became a longer-term career. 

Stan Herman

New York-based fashion designer Stan Herman (b. 1932) counts several airlines among a long list of large companies for which he has created uniforms. From 1976 to 1981, thousands of United’s cabin crewmembers wore a combination of Herman’s western style all-season uniform called Classic U.S.A. This three-piece, vested-suit version in rust Dacron polyester, was worn over the cream long sleeve body blouse highlighted in orange and red piping with a logo pattern. The optional hat with a narrow brim proved popular with flight attendants.

United Airlines flight attendants in uniforms by Stan Herman  1976
photograph
Collection of United Airlines Archive
R2016.0307.013

Yves Saint Laurent

In 1986, renowned French couturier Yves Saint Laurent (1936–2008) introduced this Qantas uniform, which was worn until 1991. The cropped, tuxedo-style jacket has the wide lapels, padded shoulders, and narrow waist of Saint Laurent’s 1980s power-suit designs for his Rive Gauche label. Terracotta collar and cuff trim project a regimental formality, while the colorful Qantas flying kangaroo pattern of the cotton-poly skirt and blouse add a festive air. 

Macario Jiménez

Mexican fashion designer Macario Jiménez studied at Milan’s Marangoni Institute and created his own clothing brand in 1994 specializing in women’s ready-to-wear. His Aeroméxico uniform, worn from 2008 to 2011, is a black polyester knit suit worn with a skirt or pants. The trim, tailored look of the jacket and skirt is highlighted with red piping, a two-tone tie belt, and dramatic kick pleat. The outfit is finished with the multicolor scarf.

Vivienne Westwood

The major influence in British punk fashion, Dame Vivienne Westwood (b. 1941) created London street fashion in the seventies and began showing in Paris in 1981. She brought her unique style to Virgin Atlantic in 2014 with this current uniform to match the airline’s maverick attitude. In signature red, the exquisitely tailored suit recalls 1940s couture and Westwood’s earlier nipped-waist Bettina jacket with a darted pencil skirt. A high collar and asymmetric frilled jacquard blouse underscore the Anglocentric qualities of this forward-looking design.

Virgin Atlantic Airways flight attendant
in uniform by Vivienne Westwood  c. 2014
photograph
Courtesy of Virgin Atlantic Airways
R2016.0302.009