Flight Patterns

In 1968, United Air Lines introduced their first uniform designed by Oscar-winning Hollywood costumer Jean Louis (1907–97), who had worked with such stars as Rita Hayworth (1918–87), Lana Turner (1921–95), and Marilyn Monroe (1926–62). The youthful A-line dress was offered in four color combinations: Hawaiian Sunset or Maliblue with a Miami Sands stripe, or in the optional ivory-colored Miami Sands with an orange Hawaiian Sunset or dark blue Maliblue stripe. Each dress came in two hemline length options. The Typical hemline was tailored at the knee, while the Tiny hemline sat above the knee and was reminiscent of the shift dresses made famous by London-based designer Mary Quant (b. 1930) and the Mod fashion scene. Matching kepi hats, full-length wool coats, and a tri-color skimmer dress for in-flight service rounded out the uniform.

[historic image]
United Air Lines stewardesses on the wing of a Douglas DC–8 airliner spell “XL”
to commemorate forty years of their profession  1970
Collection of United Airlines Archives
R2021.0603.001

The winter 1968 uniform by Dalton Apparel for Trans World Airlines (TWA) was a more colorful departure from TWA’s previous looks. This multi-piece ensemble paired an Avocado Green, Golden Yellow, or Poppy Orange dress with a striped, turtleneck bodice, scarf, and beret or headband, along with a matching jacket in the same color as the skirt. A zip-up duster raincoat with sleeves that could be pulled in to be worn as a cape was paired with a matching snap-closure kerchief. Issued in each of the three colors, the outerwear ensemble was a necessity in the late 1960s, when many airports did not have covered jet bridge walkways to protect crew and passengers from the elements as they boarded aircraft. TWA’s winter collection was worn from 1968–71 and gave hostesses the choice to wear whichever colorway they chose on a given day.   

[historic image]
Graduating class portrait of Trans World Airlines (TWA)
flight attendants wearing Dalton winter uniforms  1968
Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International
2002.113.383
R2021.0601.079

In 1969, Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) introduced their most modern and stylish uniform to date. Advertised as “The Uniform for the Superjet Era,” it was designed by Frank Smith (1927–2007) of Evan-Picone to celebrate the introduction of Pan Am’s new Boeing 747 widebody airliner. Offered in “Superjet Blue” or “Galaxy Gold,” the ensemble consisted of an A-line jumper dress or flared camisole skirt, Chesterfield jacket with modified collar, and a bowler hat. All combinations of the uniform included a white cotton blouse with a detachable stock tie that could be removed in-flight. Smith updated the widely popular Pan Am uniform for 1971–75 with subtle changes to the jacket, dress, and skirt. He also added a reversible cape, and a more dramatic, shaped-felt bowler hat by Borsalino of Italy that was nicknamed the “Tally Ho.”

[historic image]
Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) stewardess Kay (Floyd) Gilson
at John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK), New York  1969
Gift of World Wings International, Inc., Oakland Chapter
2016.060.053
R2021.0601.081

Famed Hollywood costumer Jean Louis (1907–97) introduced his third-consecutive flight attendant uniform for United Air Lines in 1973. Available in three primary colors of blue, green, and red, this interchangeable, mix-and-match series was designed to give cabin crew even more creativity in their daily choice of uniforms. A jumper dress, vest, skirt, and pants were offered in each primary color along with a matching jacket. Either a harlequin-patterned body blouse with collar, or a polka dot-patterned body blouse nicknamed the “Wonder Bread” with an attached pussycat bow, could be paired with any combination. Striped-sleeve, mock-turtleneck, sweater bodysuits also came in all three primary colors.

[historic image]
United Air Lines flight attendants review route map
with a family aboard a Boeing 747 widebody airliner  c. 1973
Gift of United Airlines Archives
1999.047.300

Braniff International Airways declared 1965 as “The End of the Plain Plane” after they hired advertising executive Mary Wells Lawrence (b. 1928) to rebrand the airline. Braniff and Lawrence commissioned architect and designer Alexander Girard (1907–93) to color coordinate everything from aircraft interiors to sugar packets, and they hired Italian fashion designer Emilio Pucci (1914–92) to overhaul the airline’s uniforms. From 1965–1974, Pucci created multiple series of wild, mix-and-match, “non-uniform” uniforms for Braniff in a variety of vivid colors and bold patterns that revolutionized airline fashion. Pucci’s 1968 “Classic Collection” featured a long-sleeve dress in pale pink or plum Trevira polyester and wool, with matching gloves, leggings, and leather pumps. A geometric-patterned, pink and yellow Vivara scarf added a splash of color, while a silver vinyl serving apron and belt with faux jewel ends reminded passengers of the ongoing Space Race.

[historic image]
Braniff International Airways’ Chief Purser with hostesses in the first class section
of the “747 Braniff Place” Boeing 747 widebody airliner  c. 1970
Courtesy of History of Aviation Collection, Special Collections and Archives Division,
Eugene McDermott Library, The University of Texas at Dallas; and Braniff Airways International
R2021.0604.001

In 1972, Emilio Pucci (1914-92) designed the “727 Braniff Place Blue Pant Collection” to commemorate the company’s growing fleet of Boeing 727 trijet airliners. A blue, short-sleeve dress made from lightweight Qiana nylon was offered in square- or high-neck options, with a scoop neck for the sleeveless dress. Likely influenced by Braniff’s routes to Latin America and the region’s traditional women’s wear, 727 Braniff Place featured patterned skirts with decorative borders and two different hemlines that were worn with shorts or palazzo pants. Matching pumps, an umbrella, purse, and a reversible coat completed the ensemble. Pucci designed his sixth and final uniform for Braniff in 1974. Dubbed “The Classic Collection” again, it showcased a fantastic, swirling Pucci print along with monochromatic blue and green elements that could be combined for more than twenty-five different looks. As with other Braniff uniforms, the 1974 Classic Collection featured a decorative, gold-plated, dove-shaped pin by Alexander Girard (1907-93).

[historic image]
Braniff International Airways hostess Christina (Rogers) Daley at far right,
with Sandra Ganaway at far left, and two other flight attendants at graduation
from Braniff Hostess College, Dallas, Texas  1974
Gift of Christina Daley
2016.166.002
R2021.0601.084